Uganda Gorilla Safari - The Crowning Glory

I recently returned from a five week East African safari through Tanzania (including Kilimanjaro climb), Kenya and Uganda. Kenya and Tanzania were stunning, but the crowning glory was gorilla tracking find the rare Mountain Gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda with my mother, aunt, and cousin. You would not believe the terrain we covered! Steep inclines, extremely dense vegetation and the humid sticky climate of a tropical rainforest. What a challenge! But, oh so completely worth it when you are face to face with one of humanity's closest living relatives. I was humbled by their gentleness and their complete concern for each other. We watched as young gorilla played without care, jumping off the dominant Silverback as if they were in a WWF wrestling match. Mothers cradled their babies and the young males bravely sat sentry against any danger. I was relieved to note that we were not considered a danger to them. We were welcomed into their world with complete trust and I was so honored to be a part of that. I cannot fully describe the peace which we all felt watching these beings in this incredible forest.

The second day of trekking was harder...no cut trail anywhere. Two members of our group decided to give up their permits to locals in our camp who have never been up the mountain. The gorilla group we were tracking was on the move and they were tough to find in that tangle of vines, branches, thorns and other fun stuff! We all were exhausted from fighting the forest! Again, the exhaustion slips away when you realize what you are witnessing. Young gorillas climbing trees, one just above your head, the Silverback guarding the group as they move to a relaxing spot to feed, a baby so close to me her smell floods my senses. I could have reached out my hand to touch her. Absolutely overwhelming. I loved it and drank it in.

I cried when I left Uganda. After five weeks on the continent, I had become so attached to the rhythm of Africa, to the simple ways and happiness of the people. There is a certain satisfaction of surviving without lights and running water and the modern conveniences we all take for granted at home. I yearn for the peace that is evident in so many ways in Africa. Not everything is handed to you there--it is earned and it is so much more valued. I am still processing a lot of what I saw, felt, heard and tasted.

By Nicole Russo

Guides in Costa Rica

Having a good guide in Costa Rica with natural history knowledge and a keen eye are essential or you can miss so much. I am a university educator and teach a number of field courses. Our Wildland Adventures guide, Leo Chavez, left an impressive mark in my memory. I really don't know how he spotted the Laughing Falcon, the Bat Falcons, or the numerous sloths. Our family had the same vantage point in the van, was avidly looking for birds, but would have missed 50% of the animals that Leo found. Leo's experience and gestalt for finding items of interest was exceptional. Towards the end or the trip, Leo had really learned something about each of us and knew what we wanted to see. For my wife, he pointed out the large Mexican Elms in the valley leading to La Paz. For my children, he found tarantulas and cool insects. For me, he pointed out the song of every inconspicuous flycatcher. In Manuel Antonio and Monteverde, I overhead three other guides stop their tour groups to introduce Leo Chavez as their mentor and the greatest ornithologist in Costa Rica. Leo has taught ornithology courses to guides in San Jose and he has a positive rapport with his former students. It was an honor to have him as a guide.

Steve Broyles
Costa Rica Vacation